There is no single best time to visit Varanasi — only the best time for the trip you want. Here's the honest breakdown.
October to March — the easy choice
Cool, pleasant days and crisp mornings. This is peak season for a reason: the weather is kind, the festivals are many (Dev Deepawali in November is breathtaking), and sunrise on the river is pure joy. Book ahead, because everyone else has the same idea.
April to June — hot and quiet
It gets very hot, often above 40°C. But hotels are cheaper, queues are shorter, and if you stick to early mornings and evenings, it's very doable. Carry water and respect the sun.
July to September — the monsoon mood
The river swells and turns moody-beautiful. Some ghats and boats may be affected by high water, so check locally. The city is green, washed and dramatic.
For a first trip, aim for November to February. For Dev Deepawali, book months in advance.
Whatever month you choose, plan your mornings around the river and your afternoons around shade.